Tuesday, June 27, 2006

Austro-Hungary 2006 - In The Wake Of A Bygone Realm

Pro's: Landscape diversity, great climate. Hot springs, castles, scenic routes, fine wining and dining everywhere.
Con's: Can't think of any.
In a nutshell: Four very different, very rich cultures within a few hours by car from each other.

From the Danubian exuberance of Budapest via the pristine Alpine scenery of Slovenia to the restrained elegance of Trieste and back by way of the northernmost Italian Renaissance city, Graz: our hardy Suzuki Ignis took us 2,500 km through the mountains and plains of the former Austro- Hungarian Empire to Hungary, Slovenia, Italy and Austria.

For over half a millennium, it all used to be one country, Europe's second largest, a European superpower, now but a name from a history textbook. Like Paris in the West, Vienna used to graciously preside over the Central European civilisation, reaching with its influence across distances and cultures. It was too busy managing its multi-cultural citizenry to endeavour an overseas expansion so the only far-flung parts of the empire were a tiny concession in Chinese Tianjin and Franz-Josef Land in Antarctica.


The high culture of the Viennese court percolated to Austrian dominions and beyond, softening mores, refining lifestyles and popularising such social staples as coffee, opera, ballroom dance, baguette, croissant, psychoanalysis and Jugendstil. Of fine wines - a sure sign of a mature hedonistic culture - the area has a lot, even if, undeservedly so, hardly with an international acclaim.


For centuries, Austro-Hungary kept steadily gaining political and territorial weight. The mostly peaceful expansion - the Hapsburgs prefered dynastic marriages to warfare - continued until it choked on Bosnia and Herzegovina in 1914 taking down the whole world with it in the whirlpool of WWI.

Nothing was the same after that. The empire tumbled like a house of cards, leaving in its wake a string of independent states, each with its own identity, yet still bearing signs and vestiges of the common past. This is what we went on search in the summer of 2006, enjoying along the way Mitteleuropa's best of worldly pleasures: food, wine, theatre, hot spring spas and the beauty of its cities and countryside.


Highlights of the trip:










Budapest - Figaro, Turkish Baths & Synagogue

Hungarian Countryside - Wine, Hot Springs & Palaces

Slovenia - Ljubljana, Triglav Mountains & Adriatic Coast

Italy - Trieste, Miramare Castle, Nudist Beaches

Austria - Opera In The Northernmost Italian Renessaince City


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Budapest - Szentendre - Siófok - Keszthely - Hévíz - Ptuj - Nova Cerkev - Celje - Predjama - Trieste - Duino - Izola - Gorizia - Bovec - Bled - Ljubljana - Maribor - Graz - Sopron - Fertöd -Törökbálint - Budapest

Monday, June 26, 2006

Graz - The Northernmost Italian Renaissance City


We did Graz pretty much on the run. Considered the time we had, we still accomplished quite a bit. Miraculously, despite the midst of the summer the opera had shows on - Umberto Jordano's André Chenier was starting in just about an hour. Frothing and panting, we rushed to the hotel to change from the hiking shoes and cargo shorts into fine tailored suits we luckily had in the hotel. You don't want to look shabby in an Austrian opera house.


Instead of a swish pre-opera dinner, we had to make do with crackers and juice in the car desperately trying to cool down in the air-conditioned air - but it turned out well worth it all. Often, opera singers take my fancy for the sheer technicality and power of their voices but this time the tenor and soprano protagonists' were far beyond that, they were ripping my heart from its very bottom, making me well up and carrying me away on the wings of their inspiration. 'Whoa, if they sing like this in the province, what is it like in Vienna then, whoa whoa whoa!', thought yours truly in bewilderment. Well, well, well, they both turned out to be Russian.



Graz stands on the watershed of the Mediterranean and Alpine Germanic zones. Geographically, it is closer to the latter but through the efforts of its feudal sovereigns a great number of Italian architects took part in creating the cityscape that we can enjoy today. One feature that signifies this cultural marriage are the ornately adorned buildings you can see here and there, covered with the cross of Italians sgraffito and Bavarian lüftlmalerei.


Amongst the red shingle rooves of comely burger houses sits something that looks like a discarded tumor of a giant alien. Organically shaped, weirdly coloured and covered with what appears as suction cups - it is the Kunsthaus Graz, the Museum of Modern Art. Its aesthetic virtues may be contestable but the novelty factor is definitely there. It serves the city wishing to cast its boring petit bourgeois image quite right. Most of all, it reminds of pierced nipples on a middle-aged accountant, married with three children.








Slovenia - Triglav, Ljubljana, Bled & the Adriatic Coast

Slovenia is a peculiar little country with magnificent nature and a high standard of living - a Switzerland on the Adriatic. Just like Switzerland it knows division on the linguistic basis - the balmy coastal areas, once Venetian possession, are Italian-speaking while the Austrian-influenced Alpine inland is, surprise, more German-speaking. That is not to forget about the national language Slovenian, which to me sounds somewhat akin to the word usage of 8th century Russian epic stories - bylinas.

Back in Austro-Hungary, the chancellor would show up at a parliament meeting with not such a thick book containing the whole body of Slovenian literature to prove his point that education in national languages is, well, pointless, but nowadays Slovenian is a language in its own right.




You can see the Italianesque-Germanic cultural division
in the food, architecture, even people's facial types as you travel through Slovenia.

  • the twee Slovenian town of Ptuj with its highly decorative churches and Jugendstil apartment buildings;
  • a night at a 700-year old (still functional) mill in Slovenian mountains - sampling herbal spirits with the miller and having breakfast on the terrace (trying my macaronic Slovenian on our host was also fun - the lingo is not unsimilar to the language of Russian heroic fables from about 1,200 years ago!)
  • the Predjama Castle built in a cave;
  • rustic scenery on Slovenian byways;
  • fish platter on a very Venetian piazza in Izola, Slovenia;
  • the gentle coastline and Italianesque villas of Slovenian Adriatic;
  • driving through a mountain passage at 1,611 meters above the sea level;
  • frolicking on a glacier, spotting waterfalls and vantage viewpoints, sunbathing, admiring the alpine flora and fauna, drinking crystal clear water in the stunning Triglav National Park in the Julian Alps;
  • Slovenian mountain villages;
  • the way too photogenic Bled Lake;
  • Slovenian Culture Festival and night lighting in Ljubljana;
  • a basketful of wild strawberries at a Ljubljana fresh market;
  • huuuuge Slovenian lunches and equally huge Slovenian dinners;
  • the picturesque city of Maribor that boasts world's oldest grapevine;



Free Port Trieste and Miramare Palace


Trieste has been an Austrian city for over five centuries, the only maritime access of the empire that never bothered to acquire overseas colonies. Briefly occupied by Venice and France it grew into a flourishing free port populated by a multicultural melange of nations. Italians, Slovenians, Austrians, Croats and Hungarians contributed to a vibrant atmosphere of creativity and prosperity on the balmy Adriatic shores.

The faded elegance of the city has a distinct Austrian flavour with delightful Italianate and Southern Slavic touches. There is no way of seeing the seams in this harmonious blend: how would you separate a stately Viennese-style coffee-shop from its lovely terrazza? Trieste's magnificent piazzas equally combine the Austrian gravitas with the Italian bellezza. The sky-blue Byzantine domes of the Serbian Orthodox Cathedral grace the bank of the Grand Canal lined with scores of open-air restaurants. On the This city may not have world-class attractions but the whole deal is so enjoyable that the more you walk around the more you feel like staying here longer.

Just outside the city is the Castello di Miramare, a graceful Italianate castle has a mysterious history of great aspirations and tragic ends. It was the favourite residence of Maximillian I, the fine Emperor of Mexico executed by Mexican rebels after a short reign. His wife later succumbed to insanity here unable to cope with her grief and was dispatched back to her native Belgium. Archduke Ferdinand stayed here on the way to Sarajevo where his assassination triggered the star of WWI. The dashing Prince Amedeo d'Aosta, who made home here after the war, went on to become the Viceroy of Ethiopia only to die in a Kenyan POW camp a few years later.

It is not all gloom and doom though, the serene coast hosts a well hidden but immensely popular nudist beach along the Viale Miramare. This rugged terrain may be the only known place where modern incarnations of Roman gods can be viewed in the buff.



Hungarian Countryside - Wine, Hot Springs & Palaces

Most visitors to Hungary do not venture beyond Budapest or, at times, the Balaton. A real waste, because Hungarian countryside is a delight. With good roads and varied landscape, you are in for many an enjoyable surprise here: former landowners' palaces, hot springs where you soak full-body in hot mineral water, pretty villages on undulating hills, vineyards, lovely roadside restaurants, akin to the French rustic auberges. The language may be a doozie, but everything can be solved with body language and a phrasebook - I swear by mine!



Just a few things we enjoyed on our countryside drives in Hungary:

  • soaking in the 4 square kilometers of radon water of the world's largest thermal lake in Hévíz;
  • kicking back in the Hungarian Baroque town of Keszthely;
  • lavish wild game dinners at the Bacchus Restaurant (things like deer's leg in blueberry sauce!);
  • staying 2 nights at the Wine Museum;
  • the gracious Festetitcs Palace and its peaceful park;
  • boat trip, midday dips and the sunset on the Balaton Lake;
  • visiting Imre Kálmán's hometown of Siófok;
  • driving around in the
  • Hungarian countryside full of undulating hills, windmills, white chapels, tranquil rivers, red-roof and thatched houses, wine cellars and hot springs;
  • the magnificent Esterházy Palace which would not be out of place somewhere in France;
  • the twee town of Sopron and savoring scrumptuous Hungarian cakes on its main square;
  • garlic soup served in a bread bun

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    +++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++

    Budapest - Szentendre - Siófok - Keszthely - Hévíz - Ptuj - Nova Cerkev - Celje - Predjama - Trieste - Duino - Izola - Gorizia - Bovec - Bled - Ljubljana - Maribor - Graz - Sopron - Fertöd -Törökbálint - Budapest

    Budapest - Figaro, Turkish Baths & Synagogue

    Figaro the opera, Turkish baths and Synagogue epitomize the exotic mixture of various cultures in the capital of the kingdom that once majestically spread from the Ukraine to the Adriatic.


    Hungarians themselves , with their distinctly different ancestry and language, are a European curiosity of sorts. In the course of their volatile history they managed to absorb many foreign influences to end up branded 'Italians of the North'. Wine-loving folk with a strong musical heritage, passionate about food and their national identity, their brand of joie de vivre is a bit of the ponderous and even somewhat phlegmatic Finno-Ugric kind, unlike the sunny French disposition or the studied imperial elegance of the Austrians.




  • Le Nozze Di Figaro at the Budapest Opera;
  • dinner at Mofarguru - the restaurant with Europe's largest menu - finished with a surprise dessert;
  • 1000 Years Of Hungarian History exhibition at the National Museum;
  • going Jewish (well, just trying on yarmulkeh) in Budapest's synagogue (Europe's largest) with the interior so lavish you'll think you're in a palace;
  • ridiculously overpriced yet) delicious cakes at the over-the-top New York Coffee House with enough gold decorations to pay off the debt of a small African country; the restaurant and the lobby of the adjacent hotel are just as mind-numbing;
  • men-only Turkish thermal baths built in 1561 and full of hot mineral water and, well, naked dudes;
  • lazying around in the Varosliget Park;
  • Hungarian Millenium Fountain and the Országház Building;
  • daytime and nighttime walks through Budapest;
  • ridiculously overpriced yet delicious wild berries parfait on Vaci Utca in Budapest;
  • the Budapest Gay Pride overspill parties

  • ***



    +++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++

    Budapest - Szentendre - Siófok - Keszthely - Hévíz - Ptuj - Nova Cerkev - Celje - Predjama - Trieste - Duino - Izola - Gorizia - Bovec - Bled - Ljubljana - Maribor - Graz - Sopron - Fertöd -Törökbálint - Budapest